As mentioned in the [intlink id=“13” type=“post”]Peggy 2 Snake[/intlink] post I wrote a bunch of small utility functions to display a string on the peggy 2.

Each character is stored as a 24-bit number (held in a 32bit uint32) where each 4 bits indicates the on/off status for a row of 4 pixels. This results in allowing for a 4x6 pixel character

For example the character for the number ‘0’ is stored as 0x699996 which when spread out looks like:

For Christmas my wife gave me a peggy 2 and I finally got around to building it.

[caption id=“attachment_14” align=“aligncenter” width=“199” caption=“Peggy 2 running Snake”] [/caption]

It has 24x25 White LEDs with a row of 25 Red LEDs across the bottom.

By having that bottom row a different colour I can use that section for displaying score or other information

The first application I wrote for it the good old game of ‘Snake’. After writing a quick version of the game I realised it needed a bit more ‘flair’ and so added the ability to display an intro screen and score screen. To make this easier I wrote a bunch of utility functions to display characters that are stored in an array. I’ll describe how this works in a separate post as [intlink id=“15” type=“post”]Peggy 2 Character display[/intlink].

Okay - now that I have a box it is time to wire it all up.

After playing around with various methods of switching I settled on a bunch of solid-state relays connected to the arduino.

The advantage of solid-state relays over mechanical onese are that they switched quicker, are less likely to arc and don’t require any additional components to up the voltage in order to throw them.  I ended up with a bunch of FSS1-102Z relays which can be bought from jaycar for about $12 each as part SY4088.

The aim was to start with 10 outlets and build out from there.

To make things easier I decided to make a box with room for 10 standard 240V wall powerpoints.

Each powerpoint is 117x70mm so allowing for two columns of five points (with space between each to allow for plugpacks)I ended up with a base of 250x460mm.  I ended up making the box 220mm deep so that it wouldn’t fall over (the exact dimension was mostly determined by the size of the piece of wood I had)

Last Christmas was my first Christmas in my very own house (was renting before) and so I was able to put up more lights than before.  In the process of setting up the lights I thought about making them computer controlled (so as to sync to music etc)

I had some X10 appliance modules which did the job for turning them on/off at the right times of day, but there was so much lag that I couldn’t use it for anything fancy.  As such I started looking around for how to do this properly.  Most of the stuff I found was only available in the US and/or was very expensive so I figured I’d just do it myself :-)

A few days ago I installed a new disk in my laptop to replace the existing small one. Being the careful person I am I backed up the important data and then migrated the contents from the old disk to the new one via rsync. Everything worked well and I was able to boot into the new disk right away without issue. That is until I went to update the podcasts I listen to.

I’ve had this blog sitting here blank for a fair while now and so I figured it is about time I did something with it.

I work in Sun as a backline OS engineer and have a major interest in Linux along with Solaris.

I’ve recently got into electronics and am in the progress of making a Arduino controlled lighting box and also am designing my own little robot.

In this blog I’ll attempt to document the lighting box and whatever else I get around to making.